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Many Thanks to the dedicated people at the Denver
Dumb Friends League for kindly allowing us to make this information
available.
The Fearful Dog
Dogs may display a variety of behaviors when they are afraid. A
frightened dog may try to escape, may show submissive behaviors
(avoidance of eye contact, submissive urinating, rolling over to expose
his belly), or he may freeze and remain immobile. Some dogs will bark
and/or growl at the object that is causing their fear. In extreme cases
of fearfulness a dog may be destructive (out of general anxiety or in an
attempt to escape), or he may lose control of his bladder or bowels and,
therefore, house soil. A fearful dog will display certain body postures,
including lowering his head, flattening his ears back against his head,
and tucking his tail between his legs. He may also pant, salivate,
tremble and/or pace.
Causes of Fearful
Behavior
Determining why your dog is fearful is not always essential to treating
the fearful behavior, although the reason for his fear will dictate the
relative success of the treatment. A dog that is genetically predisposed
to general fearfulness, or a dog that was improperly socialized during a
critical stage in his development, will probably not respond as well to
treatment as a dog that has developed a specific fear in response to a
specific experience. It is essential, however, to first rule out any
medical causes for your dog’s fearful behavior. Your first step should
be to take your dog to your veterinarian for a thorough medical
evaluation.
What You Can Do
Most fears will not go away by themselves, and if left untreated, may
get worse. Some fears, when treated, will decrease in intensity or
frequency but may not disappear entirely. Once medical reasons have been
ruled out, the first step in dealing with your dog’s fearful behavior is
to identify what triggers his fear. If he is afraid of startling noises
see our handout: “Helping Your Dog Overcome The Fear Of Thunder And
Other Startling Noises.” If he is afraid of being left alone, see our
handout: “Separation Anxiety.” Most fears can be treated using
desensitization and counter conditioning techniques, which do require a
good amount of time and patience. You may need help from a certified
animal behavior specialist to help you with these techniques (see our
handout: “When Information Isn't Enough”).
Desensitization
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Begin by exposing your dog to a very low
level or small amount of whatever it is that is causing his fear. For
example, if he is afraid of bicycles, start with a bicycle placed at a
distance of 100 feet from your dog.
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Reward him for calm, non-fearful behavior in
the presence of the bicycle. Gradually move the bicycle closer to him.
As long as your dog remains relaxed, reward him with treats and praise.
If at any point he
becomes anxious, move the bicycle further away and proceed at a slower
pace.
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When your dog can remain relaxed in the
presence of a stationary bicycle, move the bicycle 100 feet away again,
but have someone ride it slowly by him. Again, gradually increase the
proximity of the slowly moving bicycle, rewarding your dog for remaining
calm and relaxed. Repeat this procedure as many times as necessary,
gradually increasing the speed of the moving bicycle.
>
This process may take several days, weeks or
even months. You must proceed at a slow enough pace that your dog never
becomes fearful during the desensitization process. Additionally,
whatever causes the dog’s fearful reaction must be limited or
(preferably) completely removed from his environment during times that
you are not working on treatment.
Counter Conditioning
Counter conditioning works best when used along with desensitization.
This involves teaching the dog a new reaction to the fear stimulus.
>
Using the desensitization technique example
described previously, while your dog is exposed to the bicycle, ask him
to perform some obedience exercises, such as “sit” and “down.” Reward
him for obeying and continue to have him obey commands as the bicycle is
moved closer to him.
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If your dog does not know any commands,
teach him a few using treats and praise. Do not use punishment, collar
corrections or scolding to teach him the commands, as the point of
counter conditioning is for him to associate pleasant things with the
thing that frightens him.
Realistic Expectations
Some of the things that frighten dogs can be difficult to reproduce
and/or control. For example, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, he
may be responding to other things that occur during the storm, such as
smells, barometric pressure changes and/or changes in the light. During
the desensitization process it is impossible for you to reproduce all of
these factors. If your dog is afraid of men, you may work at
desensitizing him, but if an adult man lives in your household and your
dog is constantly exposed to him, this can disrupt the gradual process
of desensitization.
When To Get Help
Because desensitization and counter conditioning can be difficult to do,
and because behavior problems may increase if these techniques are done
incorrectly, you may want to get professional, in-home help from an
animal behavior specialist (see our handout: “When Information Isn't
Enough”). It is important to keep in mind that a fearful dog that feels
trapped or is pushed too far may become aggressive. Some dogs will
respond aggressively to whatever it is that frightens them (see our
handout: “Understanding Aggression In Dogs”). If your dog displays any
aggressive behavior, such as growling, snarling, snapping or baring his
teeth, stop all behavior modification procedures and seek professional
help from an animal behavior specialist as soon as possible.
Consult With Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available that can help your dog feel less anxious for
short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed
and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Do not attempt to
give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without
consulting with your veterinarian. Animals do not respond to drugs the
same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could
be fatal to your dog. Drug therapy alone will not reduce fears and
phobias permanently. In extreme cases, behavior modification and
medication used together may be the best approach.
New Products
There are products being marketed by reputable companies to help with
anxiety and stress relief in dogs. Please note that none of these is an
automatic cure for fear/anxiety, but should be used in conjunction with
behavior modification techniques. Please see our handout “Tools for
Managing Your Pet’s Anxiety” for more information.
What Not To Do
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Do not punish your dog for being afraid.
Punishment will only make him more fearful.
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Do not try to force your dog to experience
the object or situation that is causing him to be afraid. For example,
if he is afraid of bicycles and you force him to stand in place while
bicycles whiz by, he will probably become more fearful, rather than less
fearful of bicycles.
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Never punish your dog after the fact for
destruction or housesoiling caused by anxiety or fear. Animals do not
understand punishment after the fact, even if it is only seconds later.
This kind of destruction or housesoiling is the result of panic, not
misbehavior. Punishment will do more harm than good.
>
Do not attempt to reassure your dog when he
is afraid. This may reinforce his fearful behavior. If you pet, soothe
or give treats to him when he is behaving fearfully, he may interpret
this as a reward for the fearful behavior. Instead, try to behave
normally, as if you do not notice his fearfulness.
©2004
Dumb Friends League. All Rights Reserved.
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