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Many Thanks to the dedicated people at the Denver
Dumb Friends League for kindly allowing us to make this information
available.
Crate Training
Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be
useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you
can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all
the house rules – like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can
and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog
in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be
welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate,
he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time
there when needed.
Selecting A Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible,
metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most
pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him
to stand up and turn around in.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age,
temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in
mind while crate training. The crate should always be associated with
something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of
small steps - don’t go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
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Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a
lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in
the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a
happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened
opened so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
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To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food
treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way
inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first,
that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into
the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate
to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a
favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as
long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate
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After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his
regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant
association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the
crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the
back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the
crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without
becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish
a little further back in the crate.
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Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his
meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the
door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding,
leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in
the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine
to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too
quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time
period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that
you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the
way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer
Time Periods
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After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no
sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time
periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a
treat. Give him a command to enter such as, "kennel up." Encourage
him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your
hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the
treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten
minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit
quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition,
gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and
the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay
quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the
majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re
gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night.
This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4:
Part A/Crating Your Dog
When Left Alone
After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the
crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him
crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate
using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him
with a few safe toys in the crate (see our handout: "Dog
Toys and How to Use Them"). You’ll want to vary at what point
in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate.
Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you
can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don’t
make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise
your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave
quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited
behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep
arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time
to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left
alone.
Part B/Crating Your Dog
At Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular
command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate
in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy.
Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and
you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let
outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that
crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog
is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you
can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.
Potential Problems
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Too Much Time In The Crate
A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used
correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if
your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated
again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space.
Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and
emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age
shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a
time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer
periods.
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Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may
be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the
crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you
followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t
been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his
crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you,
he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the
crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after
you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates
with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited,
take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play
time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate,
the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t
give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to
get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the
training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less
likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes
unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over
again.
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Separation
Anxiety
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation
anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from
being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape
from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved
with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may
want to consult a professional animal behaviorist for help (see our
handout: "Separation Anxiety").
Copyright 2000. Dumb Friends
League. All rights reserved.
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